Why Edinburgh is the ultimate fall destination

September 27, 2020

The first time I visited Edinburgh, I was nine — and Scotland was in the midst of a heat wave.

It was August, and the city was packed with international visitors who were there to enjoy the Edinburgh Festival Fringe, a month-long annual celebration of theatre, music, comedy and art. It’s a beautifully chaotic time of year there. Celtic music spills out of pubs on every block, outdoor celebrations pop up in every neighborhood, and the skies above Edinburgh Castle light up with fireworks several times a week during the Tattoo, a traditional royal military parade.

One sweaty afternoon, my parents and I stood among a throng on Princes Street to watch a carnival-like parade of bagpipers, dancers and elaborate floats. As I watched the procession, I remember seeing it out of the corner of my eye: A few strangers quickly caught a very old, very small Scottish woman at the front of the crowd as she fainted.

August is by far the most popular month to visit Scotland — not just because of the Fringe, but also because it’s generally the warmest and least rainy time of year there. I would never dissuade anyone from heading to Edinburgh at the height of summer to experience the Gothic city in full-on party mode. After all, who wouldn’t love to spend a few sunny days and heady, art-filled nights in a beautiful new place?

But watching that woman fall backward in the heat (she recovered quickly, by the way!) reminded me that Edinburgh in August is not Edinburgh in default mode. For most of the year, Scotland’s climate is damp, dark and cold — and while that might not sound very inviting, visiting Edinburgh in typical “dreich” weather gives the traveler an opportunity to experience Scotland at its cozy, gray and tweedy best.

I discovered that in October 2019, when I had the opportunity to stay with my husband Ian in Edinburgh as he helped set up an experiment at a local university. While he was there for nearly a full month, I stayed only a week. But it was enough time to discover that all of the things that make Edinburgh famous — the dark Gothic architecture, the ghost stories, the tartans and whiskeys, and the cozy cafes and mysterious alleyways that inspired the “Harry Potter” novels — mean that autumn in Edinburgh is a big mood.

Here are a few reasons why you should consider visiting Edinburgh while the leaves are changing.

Tartans, tweeds & tat

A stroll down Edinburgh’s famous Royal Mile is a must for any visitor — not only because the street is home to some of the most famous attractions in the city, but also because the stone buildings lining this Old Town thoroughfare are extremely aesthetically pleasing. In the height of summer, the Royal Mile’s crowds might lead to claustrophobia. In the fall, there are still plenty of tourists left, but there’s much more room to breathe.

Once you’ve checked out the must-see sites here, including Edinburgh Castle, the Palace of Holyroodhouse and St. Giles’ Cathedral, you might be tempted to return to your hotel for a nap — but don’t sleep on the shopping! Yes, most of the shops here are a tourist trap, but they’re an autumnal tourist trap.

First, browse the tartans, tweeds and Wellies. At Marchbrae on the Mile, you’ll find everything you need for a fall Scottish outing, including waterproof, corduroy-lined Barbour jackets, soft plaid cashmere scarves, rubber Wellington boots and gorgeous wool capes. And at Walker Slater — seriously the coziest clothing boutique I’ve ever visited! — you can browse a wide collection of hand-woven Harris Tweed coats, blazers and accessories. I walked away from my boutique browsing with a gorgeous pair of Harris Tweed tartan gloves.

Then, check out the Royal Mile’s delightfully tacky specialty shops. I’ll come right out and admit that my favorite theme store was Ye Olde Christmas Shoppe, where I snagged some little tartan tree ornaments for myself and a couple of holiday gifts for loved ones. But I also can’t resist those dessert shops serving up buttery shortbread, whisky- and maple-flavored fudge, and Edinburgh Rock, a puzzling candy that’s best described as a cross between a Necco wafer and, um, a piece of wet chalk.

Haunted kirks & cemeteries

Despite the fact that Scots don’t celebrate Halloween on an American scale, Edinburgh is the perfect place to get in the Halloween spirit. Whether you believe in ghosts or not, you’ll be entertained by this city’s many superstitions, “haunted” castles and churches, and overall creepy atmosphere.

Edinburgh Castle is the belly of the eerie beast — it’s more than 2,000 years old, so you can bet it’s seen its fair share of war, persecution, spurned lovers and resentful royals, all good fodder for ghost stories. Previous visitors have reported hearing unexplained drumbeats, knocking sounds and more. Whether or not something paranormal happens to you here, you’ll certainly feel a chill walking down the castle’s cold granite corridors.

Another epicenter of the otherworldly is Greyfriars Kirkyard, where the wealthy lord George “Bloody” Mackenzie is interred. Mackenzie is said to have had a hand in killing and torturing more than 1,000 Covenanters who refused to convert to Presbyterianism back in the 17th century. Local legend has it that a homeless man who once disturbed his tomb didn’t come out alive.

But perhaps the easiest entry into Edinburgh’s haunted history lies underground. Beneath South Bridge in the Old Town lies a system of damp, dark vaults, which were once home to taverns, merchants, illegal activities and the poor before they were finally abandoned in the late 19th century. They were reopened for the first time in 1985, and now any curious visitor can have a look at Edinburgh’s underground secrets by joining a ghost tour.

Color riots

I live in New England, which is widely considered to be the fall foliage capital, yet I felt some spots in Edinburgh gave my home a run for its money.

I spotted some of the city’s best colorful foliage in Princes Street Gardens — no surprise, given the park is home to a huge variety of tree species from around the world. When I visited in late October, I saw bright yellow birches, fiery orange maples and fire-engine-red sumacs, among other beauties.

Another good seasonal destination is Dean Village, a fairy-tale-like neighborhood on the banks of the Water of Leith. Built in the 1880s to house local workers, the village boasts pops of yellow color in trees amid a sea of green vines, grasses and mosses. It’s also a great jumping off point for more leap-peeping along the riverfront, as it abuts a path that continues along the Water of Leith for at least a mile on either side.

To see fall color spreading across the entire city, one of the best vantage points is Calton Hill, a short climb up from Princes Street. The hill itself is home to several noteworthy monuments and the seat of the Scottish government, but the nearly 360-degree views are the true reason so many huff and puff up those stairs. (OK, I may have been the only one huffing and puffing — the hill isn’t that steep, but I was quite ill on the morning I climbed up!)

Pottermania

Not a single scene from the “Harry Potter” series takes place in Edinburgh — yet it’s become a crucial pilgrimage site for millions of fans of the series. That’s because J.K. Rowling spent time here while writing the books. Even if the author has debunked some rumors about specific sites that inspired parts of “Potter,” it’s pretty clear just by looking around that the whole city must have served as inspiration for the books and the movies. Nip into one of Edinburgh’s closes — narrow lanes radiating off the Royal Mile — and you’ll feel like you’re about to enter Diagon Alley. Visit Holyrood Abbey and you’ll get major Hogwarts Castle vibes.

Some sites in Edinburgh are undisputed sources of inspiration for Rowling, including the aforementioned Greyfriars Kirkyard. It’s filled with the tombstones of people whose names might sound familiar to you if you’ve read the “Harry Potter” series: McGonagall, Moodie, Scrymgeour and even Thomas Riddell. And nearby is The Elephant House, a now-mobbed cafe where Rowling is said to have written some of the series.

At these sites and throughout the city, it’s much easier to mentally transport yourself to the wonderful wizarding world of Harry Potter if the weather is “driech” enough to don a striped scarf — and you can count on that come fall.

Wee nips of whiskey & tea

I’ve always considered whisky to be the ultimate cold-weather drink. There’s nothing more warming than whisky on a crisp night, whether it’s added to a glass of hot cider, mixed into an old fashioned or a Manhattan, or sampled by itself in a highball glass. So it’s quite handy that this spirit is everywhere in Scotland, including in its capital city.

If you’d like to learn how this famous stuff is made as you sip, the Royal Mile’s Scotch Whisky Experience might be the destination for you. If you’re already one of the initiated, consider a tasting at a distillery or local bottle shop. (In the neighborhood where we were staying, Newington, we found out that WoodWinters Wines and Whiskies organizes regular tastings and food pairings in their shop and at local restaurants. How fun!) If you’re a total gourmand, you’d best book an evening at Whisky Forager, where you’ll get a bespoke multi-course dinner with whisky pairings.

Not a whisky fan? Never fear, there are plenty of alcohol-free beverage options for those who are looking for an indoor retreat on a cold, rainy Scottish day. Tearooms abound in Edinburgh, and they range from the fancy to the no-frills. The Dome is the creme de la creme of Scottish tearooms — book in late fall and you might just catch their ostentatious Christmas decorations. More laid back venues include Red Bus Bistro, Casa Angelina (great for vegan and gluten-free folks), and Mimi’s Bakehouse.