Rhode Trip! Fall on the Blackstone River Bikeway
Welcome to Rhode Trip! In this series, I’m sharing my weekend adventures within the bounds of my home state of Rhode Island. Exploring the Ocean State’s hiking trails, bike routes, rivers, beaches, culture and history has shown me that I don’t have to travel far to make epic memories. I hope this series inspires you to discover the beauty of your own backyard.
Ah, September — that magical month that encapsulates the best of both summer and fall! In Rhode Island, September is the time to soak up the last of the warm-weather rays at the tourist-free beaches, a time to sample local apple cider and local ice cream in the same afternoon…and a time to revel in the last of T-shirt weather by taking the bike out for a spin.
I’m no stranger to biking in Rhode Island, but I tend to revisit my favorite routes rather than explore new ones. So at the beginning of 2020, I resolved to change that: I made it my goal to cycle all five of Rhode Island’s major multi-use paths this year.
In May, Ian and I checked off the East Bay Bike Path — easily the Ocean State’s most popular spot for biking. But we saw many people along the path congregating in large groups, talking without masks and lining up for pizza too close to one another, and we got too spooked to try another path.
Slowly, our resolve grew. We did some research on the Blackstone River Bikeway, which begins north of Providence and ends in Woonsocket, and found that it wasn’t as heavily trafficked as the East Bay Path. We decided not to stop at any stores, food stands or people-dense sights along the route. And we planned to start farther from the population centers of Providence and Pawtucket to lower our likelihood of coming into contact with crowds.
Once we’d picked a sunny Saturday afternoon in late September, we were off!
About the Blackstone River Bikeway
Cutting all the way through the northeastern corner of Rhode Island, the Blackstone River was once nicknamed the “hardest working river in America.” This was the birthplace of the American Industrial Revolution, the valley where the U.S. began its transition from a nation of farms to a nation of factories. Since 1790, the river has powered countless textile mills that have manufactured and shipped goods across the country and world. Some are still operating today. Others have found new life as offices, condos, breweries or maker spaces.
The bikeway’s industrial past and preservation-focused present make it a perfect bike excursion. The trail meanders through villages with rich history, fronts historic factories and dams, and cuts through peaceful forests and fields. It’s never too crowded, nor is it too isolated. It’s not monotonous, neither is it unpleasant sensory overload.
Technically, Blackstone Valley cyclists can begin their journey in the same place as East Bay cyclists — at India Point Park in the center of Providence. But doing so means facing more than 6 miles of a confusing mix of bike lanes, sharrows and dirt trails before finally arriving at a continuous dedicated path. To be safer, Ian and I began at the start of the bikeway’s unbroken trail: behind an unassuming soccer field in Cumberland.
The ride
Right at the start of our journey, Ian and I were plunged into a dense, multicolored forest between two lazy forks of the Blackstone River. Despite the idyllic setting and weather, for the first few miles, we saw almost no one else.
Traffic on the trail picked up near the village of Ashton, where a bridge crosses the river and reveals a gigantic smoke stack atop historical Ashton Mill. The mill was just one small part of a textile and real-estate empire built by Wilbur Kelly, a sea captain turned entrepreneur. The area’s history is detailed at Kelly’s former house, now a museum just steps from Ashton Mill. (As of fall 2020, Kelly House is closed due to the pandemic.)
At this juncture, we joined a handful of families, running clubs and fellow cyclists on the path as it crossed to the other side of the Blackstone River. Now, we were riding between the river and the railroad where trains once carried mill-made textiles to the port of Providence to be shipped across the globe. A dramatic rock wall rose up above the train tracks.
The trail again crossed the river at Albion Falls, the site of a former mill-turned-condo complex. It was a beautiful place to stop and take stock of the early fall foliage.
We then wound our way north toward Manville, another former mill village. The mill burned down in 1956, but the dam that powered it is still there — and its banks have recently been transformed into a very nice park, where locals were relaxing and chatting in the sun.
The path quieted down again and we were plunged back into a heavily wooded area, the railroad and rock wall still flanking us on one side. The river grew lazier. The autumn colors were particularly bright in some marshy areas along this stretch of the path.
Before we knew it, we had crossed into Woonsocket, Rhode Island’s northernmost town. The Rhode Island portion of the trail officially ends at the River’s Edge Recreation Complex, a huge outdoor park built over a former landfill site. Some cyclists continue through the town and over the state line, following the trail to its terminus in Uxbridge, Massachusetts. But at the time of our ride, Woonsocket was a COVID-19 hotspot and Massachusetts had placed a travel restriction on Rhode Islanders — so Ian and I turned around here.
We’d traveled about 20 miles round trip, but the trail was so flat and relaxing it had felt like five.
If you go
The Blackstone River Bikeway is a perfect outing for walkers, runners or cyclists of any skill level. With several entry points along the trail, it’s easy to customize the length of your journey. The National Park Service has a few helpful maps to help you plan your journey.
If you choose to start and end in Providence, expect to ride more than 36 miles. If you start at the beginning of the dedicated path, like we did, your ride will be 20 miles total.
To follow our journey, here’s where you’ll want to park. Make sure to lock your car and store all of your valuables out of sight, as the parking signs suggest. To start in Providence, navigate to India Point Park; be mindful that on warm summer weekends, parking can be scarce here.
There’s no bad time to visit the bikeway, but the scenery is undoubtedly at its best in summer and fall. When the weather is warm, all you’ll need for a great ride is your bike, a helmet, some water, and maybe a snack and light jacket.
More resources: Rhode Island Parks & Recreation, History of the Blackstone River Valley, Blackstone Heritage Corridor
Happy riding!
