Rhode Trip! A DIY public art bike tour of Jamestown
Welcome to Rhode Trip! In this series, I’m sharing my weekend adventures within the bounds of my home state of Rhode Island. Exploring the Ocean State’s hiking trails, bike routes, rivers, beaches, culture and history has shown me that I don’t have to travel far to make epic memories. I hope this series inspires you to discover the beauty of your own backyard.
If you know me, you know I love a good weekend bike ride, particularly in sultry summer weather. So it’s probably no surprise to you that in 2020 — a year that had all of us scrambling to find fun, outdoor, socially-distant activities close to home to save our sanity — I probably logged more miles in the saddle than in 2018 and 2019 combined.
What I love most about bike riding is that it transforms simple or even downright boring outings into epic adventures. I’ve always loved doing grocery runs on two wheels, for example; a dreaded weekly chore becomes an excuse to get some fresh air, take a detour to the beach and break out my rainbow bungee cords. (What can I say? It’s the little things.) Back when I lived in Colorado, a routine trip to work or the post office, when done by bike on a sunny day, would often transform my mood.
South County Bike Path 
East Bay Bike Path
And that’s why, when I found out about the Outdoor Arts Experience exhibition in Jamestown, Rhode Island, I immediately started planning my own bike-by tour of the public art on display. Driving or walking by a few outdoor art installations sounded a bit ho-hum to me. But biking by, with the wind in my hair, the sun on my face and the salty sea just steps away, sounded amazing.
The Outdoor Arts Experience, originally conceived as a celebration of the Jamestown Art Center’s 10th anniversary, suddenly took on new relevance when the pandemic hit. Almost overnight, what became just one element in this small island community’s arts scene became, well, one of the only elements, as creative course offerings halted and indoor galleries closed. The art center said it received more than 100 submissions from artists for the outdoor exhibition, even though only 11 pieces could be accommodated.
The end result was a truly inspired collection of temporary art installations dotted around the parks, businesses and landmarks of Jamestown, on display through the end of the warm season.
About Jamestown, Rhode Island
Jamestown — otherwise known as Conanicut Island — sits in the middle of Narragansett Bay between two iconic summer destinations: mansion-filled, yachty Newport and funky, beachy South County. As a result, it’s picked up elements of both places. Like Newport, its residents are mostly very wealthy, and many of them enjoy plummy hobbies like sailing and tennis. But like South County residents, they seem to take pleasure in the simple joys of summer: swimming at the town beach, fishing off the dock, picking berries at a farm and watching sunset from the cliffside.
Jamestown is, in my opinion, one of the most naturally beautiful places in the Ocean State. Its walking trails meander through centuries-old farms and often afford million-dollar views of the ocean. Its parks are packed with historical features, from colonial Dutch windmills to remains of forts from the Civil War and World War I. And its rocky cliffs are perfectly picturesque.
With a population of less than 5,500 and a small town center that doesn’t boast many restaurants or cafes, Jamestown is blessedly quiet and traffic-free for much of the year. Most of the tourists who pass through are people looking to ride the ferry to Newport or superfans of Wes Anderson, who want to see all the scenic spots where “Moonrise Kingdom” was filmed.
Our DIY bike route
Ian and I started our ride near Taylor Point, where a few local families were fishing and bathing at a small no-name beach, and immediately headed south along the east shore of Jamestown. Within a mile, we found our first art piece: “Isolation,” by Vermont artist James Payne. The wood and metal pipe piece, Payne said, is meant to confront the dichotomy of nature and technology, lending a sense of dynamic movement to wood, a material usually considered unmoving, sturdy and solid.
Views of the town’s main habor propelled us farther south into the center of town, where we lingered a little while to admire the view and the small concentration of outdoor art pieces. There was “Marbelle,” a giant boat sculpture decorated with intricately patterned glass marbles; “water,” a fiberglass ode to the element that surrounds Conanicut Island; and “Empty,” a minimal stack of steel rings gracing the entrance to the boat harbor.
We continued down the shore, riding past brand-new megamansions, modest shingled bungalows and sprawling old farm estates — some of which date back to the 17th century.
Eventually we found ourselves at Fort Wetherill State Park, the site of ruined military batteries and sweeping views of Newport and the bay. We shared the space with very few other people — mostly SCUBA diving students, who come here to get open-water certified, and plein air artists, who come here for aesthetic inspiration.
I realized it had been nearly three years since Ian and I first visited this park, back when we were mulling a move to New England. Oh, how time flies!
We next headed west, huffing and puffing up a steep hill and then riding down Highland Drive, where the houses were perhaps even more grandiose than they were in town. And in no time, we had arrived at Jamestown’s main beach, Mackerel Cove. For those who aren’t town residents, biking is one of the only ways to get to this picturesque stretch of sand: Parking is limited to town residents until 5 p.m.
Back in town, we grabbed snacks at McQuade’s Marketplace and passed two of my favorite art installations of the day: “La Yarn Bomb-baa,” a trio of sheep covered in yarn-bomb-style knitting, and the unnamed optical illusion of a crosswalk just outside the Jamestown Art Center — a missed selfie opportunity if there ever was one.
After an alfresco lunch overlooking the harbor at the Newport Pell Bridge, Ian and I returned north to Taylor Point, where our journey began. All in all, it had been a perfect outing — a nice blend of old and new, relaxing and challenging, culture-filled and outdoorsy.
If you go
This 8-mile loop is a great bike ride for cyclists of all levels — although if you’re new to biking and attempt this route, you might feel pretty sore the next day!
If you’d like to follow in my footsteps but want a bit more of a challenge, I suggest heading south from Mackerel Cove to Beavertail State Park, home of the most stunning views in Jamestown; that adds a flat 6 miles to the round-trip journey. Or you can make a loop around the less visited, but no less beautiful, north end of the island by heading up North and Main Roads, where you’ll see a gorgeous historic windmill, countless bucolic farms and the former Conanicut Island Lighthouse, whose striking red facade is heavily used in “Moonrise Kingdom.” That northern route clocks in at nearly 14 miles.
Parking is free on Freebody Road near Taylor Point, but in high season, spots may fill up quickly.
Have you ever been to Jamestown? If so, do you love it as much as I do?
